I'm Back!

              After a little bit of a hiatus I'm back!  Sorry for the delay on patterns, I found a job and got a new apartment at the same time.  So after a hectic few weeks I'm back on track with the patterns.  

               Portland is it's usual lovely, rainy self and I decided it was time for a beret to cheer up the end of winter.  I used Malabrigo Worsted that I got at Yarn Garden and a large crochet hook so you can whip this up in no time.  The Pink Frost color works almost like a neutral so you can wear it with everything.  Hope you enjoy it!

                As usual, feel free to use the pattern to make something for yourself but please remember to reference me as the designer.  Thank you!

Berry

1 skein Malabrigo Worsted, col. Pink Frost

1 size G crochet hook 

Darning needle

Removable stitch markers

I love hats, and I love Malabrigo Worsted, so a hat out of this beautiful yarn seemed appropriate.  Berets never go out of style so I decided to update it by using a worsted weight yarn with a larger crochet hook.  It’s a quick and easy accessory, perfect for the last bit of winter!

With crochet hook and yarn chain 3, join with a slip st

Work 7 scs into circle

Next round:  work 2 scs into each sc, (these will be the base for the increases), place marker at end of round

Begin increase rounds:

Round 1:  work 2 hdcs into V, work 1 hdc in next st, repeat 6 mpre times

Round 2:  work 2 hdcs into V, work 1 hdc into next 2 sts, repeat 6 more times

Round 3:  work 2 hdcs into V, work 1 hdc into next 3 sts, repeat 6 more times

Round 4:  work 2 hdcs into V, work 1 hdc into next 4 sts, repeat 6 more times

Round 5:  work 2 hdcs into V, work 1 hdc into next 5 sts, repeat 6 more times

Round 6:  work 2 hdcs into V, work 1 hdc into next 6 sts, repeat 6 more times

Round 7:  work 2 hdcs into V, work 1 hdc into next 7 sts, repeat 6 more times

Round 8:  work 2 hdcs into V, work 1 hdc into next 8 sts, repeat 6 more times

Round 9:  work 2 hdcs into V, work 1 hdc into next 9 sts, repeat 6 more times

Round 10:  work 2 hdcs into V, work 1 hdc into next 10 sts, repeat 6 more times

Round 11:  work 2 hdcs into V, work 1 hdc into next 11 sts, repeat 6 more times

Round 12:  work 2 hdcs into V, work 1 hdc into next 12 sts, repeat 6 more times

Round 13:  work 2 hdcs into V, work 1 hdc into next 13 sts, repeat 6 more times

Work 3 rounds of hdc 

Begin decrease rounds:  

Round 1:  work a hdc into next 6 sts, skip 1, repeat 13 more times

Round 2:  work a hdc into next 5 sts, skip 1, repeat 13 more times

Round 3:  work a hdc into next 4 sts, skip 1, repeat 13 more times

Round 4:  work a hdc into next 3 sts, skip 1, repeat 13 more times

Work 1 round of hdc

Work 2 rounds of sc

Work a slip st and fasten off yarn

Weave in ends

Wear and enjoy!

Better Late Than Never!

Pattern #12 is, unfortunately, showing up a bit late this week.  I started a new job on the 10th and it's been a whirlwind for the last two weeks!  (Don't think I'm complaining, I'm thrilled about the job and the great people that I work with!)  My time for knitting has been fairly limited but I came up with this pattern and I hope you enjoy it.  I got requests for another crocheted item and I hope this scarf makes the crocheters happy.  It gently curves around your neck for easy wearing because of it's construction, and since it's made in small pieces that are sewn together, it's easily portable.  I called it Bubbles because the colors reminded me of the iridescence of soap bubbles on a sunny day.

Bubbles 

1 ball Skacel Crazycolor sock yarn

Size E crochet hook

hdc-half double crochet

sc-single crochet

Gauge is not necessary for this project

Sometimes you find a great yarn but aren’t quite sure what to do with it.  I saw this Skacel sock yarn in one of my LYS and loved the combination of colors but I don’t like to knit socks.  It thought about making another entrelac scarf but wasn’t really in the mood for that.  I like to try out new ways of making ordinary items and so I came up with a series of octagons, sewn onto one another, that would curve slightly when finished.  This curve helps the scarf sit on easily on the neck when worn.  The plus is that as a sock yarn it’s easily washable!

Chain 4, join chain with slip st to form a circle

Sc, then work 7 scs into circle

Next round:  work a hdc into each sc twice  (14 hdcs)

The two hdcs will form a “V”.  All increases will be worked into these Vs.

Round 1:  work two hdcs into next st, work one hdc into next st, repeat 6 more times

Round 2:  work two hdcs into next st, work one hdc into next 2 sts, repeat 6 more times

Round 3:  work two hdcs into next st, work one hdc into next 3 sts, repeat 6 more  times

Round 4:  work two hdcs into next st, work one hdc into next 4 sts, repeat 6 more times

Round 5:  work two hdcs into next st, work one hdc into next 5 sts, repeat 6 more times

Round 6:  work two hdcs into next st, work one hdc into next 6 sts, repeat 6 more times

Round 7:  work two hdcs into next st, work one hdc into next 7 sts, repeat 6 more times

Round 8:  work two hdcs into next st, work one hdc into next 6 sts, repeat 6 more times

Work a slip st into next st and fasten off

Make 13 more of the octagons

I decided to graduate the colors in my scarf but feel free to put them together in any combination.  Sew one of the eight sides from point to point, then move to the opposite side of the octagon and sew the next octagon onto it in the same manner until they are all joined.  

Sew in ends

Wear and enjoy!

Pattern #11!

          I can't believe that it's been almost twelve weeks of patterns.  Three months is one quarter of the way to a year!  It's a great feeling to have stuck with this so far, here's hoping that I make it the entire way!
          Sorry that this is another accessory but this past week has been really busy in a good way.  I finally, after a year and a half of looking, have gotten a job.  And a full time one too!
          I came up with these gloves because I have a trench coat I love but for one problem.  It has 3/4 length sleeves, and with the winter weather here in Portland, that's not always a good thing.  These gloves are long enough to keep me warm and cozy during a cold day but cute enough to be worn anytime.  Once again I used Malabrigo Worsted, so soft and lovely I don't really mind using it over and over.  This color I got at http://www.knit-purl.com/store/pc/home.asp, a yarn store fairly close to me.  If you're downtown it's worth going over not only for the great selection of yarn but for their wonderful window displays.  Hope you enjoy the gloves!
           As always, the patterns are for you to use to make yourself something but please remember to reference me as the designer.  Thank you!

Baby, It’s Cold Outside Gloves

1 skein Malabrigo Merino Worsted, color Col China

1 pair size 7 needles

1 pair size 6 needles

1 size E crochet hook

Darning needle

Gauge:  4.5 sts to 1” in stockinette stitch

Garter Stitch:

Row 1:  knit

Row 2:  knit 

Repeat these two rows

sl1-slip the next stitch as to purl

sc-single crochet

Sometimes you find a great colorway, in a great yarn, and you’re dying to make something with it, but you know a whole sweater in it would be overkill.  That was how I felt about this lovely colorway from Malabrigo.  It’s a green and pink mix that might be too much in a larger garment but it’s great for accessories.  I also have a green trenchcoat with 3/4 length sleeves that I’ve been hard pressed to find accessories that go with it.  This color is perfect and the fitted cuff of these gloves keep my arms warm and toasty during the cold weather.

Cast on 38 sts, leaving a tail 3 yards long

Set up row:  sl1, k1, p1, to end, k1

Slip the first stitch of each row for selvedge.  This will help keep a neat edge for making up.

Work in 1x1 rib for 9”, ending with a WS row

Change to smaller needles and work in garter stitch for 3”.  Remember to slip the first st of each row for selvedge.

Work 1x1 rib for 1”

Bind off, leaving a tail about a foot long

Repeat for second glove

With darning needle sew sides together for 9” of ribbing and 3 of the garter ridges, take yarn off needle

Using the bind off tail and darning needles sew down along 1” of rib and 4 garter ridges

Using the remainder of the long cast on tail, and using size E crochet hook, crochet 15 scs around thumb opening.  Repeat 2 more times.  

Weave in ends

Wear and enjoy!

Woven

          Here's the newest pattern, an entrelac scarf with a little bit of a twist.  I was out and about one day and I saw a woman wearing a chunky entrelac scarf with a wide garter border along the sides.  It got me thinking about how exactly it worked.  I sat down one night with a skein of Noro's Kureyon sock that I got at Twisted here in Portland, http://twistedpdx.com/, and worked out the pattern.  The start and finish of the scarf were the trickiest parts, but once you I got going I found it fairly easy.  It's best to have a working knowledge of entrelac for this scarf, or a good tutorial like this one from Knitting Daily on youtube.com: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tcLxMt9GehM.   I love the woven look of entrelac and how well it works with self striping yarns.  I also love the wrong side of the work, with it's undulating look, almost more than I like the right side.
          Let me know if there are any questions on this one, or if I can make the pattern clearer.  I write the patterns the way that makes the most sense to me but I'm never sure if they work for everyone.  Any feedback is appreciated!  I hope you enjoy making this as much as I enjoyed coming up with it!
          As usual all the patterns here are my own design.  Please feel free to use them to make yourself a garment but please be sure to reference me as the designer.  Thank you and enjoy!

Woven

1 skein Noro Kureyon Sock color 226

Size 6 needles

This is a fairly tricky pattern so it is best if you are familiar with Entrelac and short rows before beginning the scarf.  

garter stitch:  knit every row

pm:  place marker

sm:  slip marker

sl2:  slip 2 sts as to purl

sl1:  slip 1 st as to purl

ssk:  slip 2 sts as to purl, place them back on the left hand needle and knit them     together

p2tog:  purl 2 sts together

w&t:  slip st, turn work so opposite side is facing you, bring yarn from back of work between needles and AROUND the slipped st, wrapping it.  Bring yarn back to the opposite side of work.  

                                                                      Scarf measures about 50" long

Gauge is not necessary, but I got 5 sts to 1”

I was out and about one day when I saw a woman wearing an entrelac scarf.  It had a border of garter stitch along the bottoms and sides and that got me wondering exactly how that would work.  I pulled some yarn out of my stash and started trying different things.  Finally, about 11pm one night I got it and started on the scarf.  I love the woven, organic look of the scarf.  If you want to you can block the scarf to make it completely even but I left mine unblocked to keep the rustic feel.

Cast on 38 sts

Knit 8 rows in garter stitch

Set up Entrelac Tier

First entrelac block: 

 knit 5, pm, p1, turn work, 

 sl1, knit 5, turn work, 

 knit 5, k1, sl 2, turn work,

 p3, sm, k5, turn work, 

 k5, sm, k2, sl2, turn work, 

 p4, sm, k5, turn work,

 k5, k3, sl 2, turn work, 

 p5, sm, k5, turn work, 

 k5, k4, sl2, turn work, 

 p6, sm, k5, turn work, 

 k5, sl2, turn work, 

 p7, sm, k5

 Move to next block

Second entrelac block set up row:  

 (k5, sm, k7, sl2, turn work,

 p2, turn work, k1, sl2, turn work, 

 p3, turn work, k2, sl2, turn work,

 p4, turn work, k3, sl2, turn work,

 p5, turn work, k4, sl2, turn work, 

 p6, turn work, k5, sl2, turn work,

 p7

 Move to next block)

Repeat the Second Entrelac Block set up  from ( to ) twice more, pm, end with k5

Second Entrelac Tier:

First block:  

 k5, sm, pfb, take the la st st just worked and purl it together with the next st, turn work,         

 k2, sm, k5, turn work, 

 k5, sm, m1, p1, p2tog, turn work, 

 k3, sm, k5, turn work, 

 k5, sm, m1, p2, p2tog, turn work, 

 p4, sm, k5, turn work, 

 k5, sm, m1, p3, p2tog, turn work, 

 k5, sm, k5, turn work, 

 k5, m1, p4, p2tog, turn work,

 k6, sm, k5, turn work, 

 k5, sm, m1, p5, p2tog

Second block:

 (starting with the WS of work facing, and beginning at top of triangle, pick up 7 sts 

 purlwise along long side of triangle purling LAST picked up st together with the first st  

 from the next triangle, turn work,

 k7, turn work,

 p6, p2tog, turn work, 

 k7, turn work, p6, p2tog, turn work, 

 k7, turn work, p6. p2tog, turn work, 

 k7, turn work, p6, p2tog, turn work, 

 k7, turn work, p6, p2tog, turn work,

 k7, turn work, p6, p2tog)

Repeat the Second block from (to) twice more

                                                                       Wrong side of work

Third Entrelac tier:  

First block:

 k5, sm, m1, ssk, turn work,

 p2, sm, turn work, 

 k5, sm, m1, k1, ssk, turn work, 

 p3, sm, k5, turn work, 

 k5, sm, m1, k2, ssk, turn work, 

 p4, sm, k5, turn work, 

 k5, sm, m1, k3, ssk, turn work, 

 p5, sm, k5, turn work,

 k5, sm, m1, k4, ssk, turn work,

 p6, sm, k5, turn work, 

 k5, sm, m1, k6, ssk

Second block:  

 (pick up 7 sts along long side of next triangle, working the last picked up st and the next  

 st as a ssk, turn work, 

 purl 7, turn work, k6, ssk, turn work, 

 p7, turn work, 

 k6, ssk, turn work, 

 p7, turn work,

 k6, ssk, turn work, 

 p7, turn work, 

 k6, ssk, turn work,

 p7, turn work, 

 k6, ssk, turn work, 

 p7, turn work,

 k6, ssk)

Repeat Second block from (to) twice more

Repeat Second and Third tiers until piece measures 48” from cast on, ending with a WS row

                                                                        

Final tier:

First block:

k5, sm, k7, pick up 7 sts along side of triangle, ssk, turn work

p6, w&t

k5, ssk, turn work, 

p5, w&t, 

k4, ssk, turn work, 

p4, w&t

k3, ssk, turn work

p3, w&t

k2, ssk, turn work

p2, w&t

k1, ssk, turn work, 

p1, w&t, 

ssk

Repeat this block twice more

Next row:  knit, ignoring wraps.  These will be disguised by the garter stitch so there is no need to work them with their stitches.  Remove markers as you come to them.  

Knit 7 more rows.

Bind off

Wear and enjoy!

                                                                       No model today so Mr. Catch stood in.  

          Hope you all got some great knitting related gifts for the holidays, I certainly did.  Two of my friends got me a gift certificate to Twisted, http://twistedpdx.com/, and I spent Monday picking out some great yarn.  (Look for a really colorful sweater coming soon!)  I think I'm also going to tackle the Twinkie Chan cupcake scarf as a belated holiday pattern for myself.  It's so sweet and cute I'm sure I'll be smiling all the time when wearing it!

Easy Peasy Neck Piece

       Here's pattern #8, a quick and easy little knit just in time for the holidays.  It's perfect for beginners and only takes a few hours to knit.  If you are stumped for a last minute gift this should surely fit the bill!
         If you finish any of these patterns and feel like sharing feel free to send photos here and I will post them, it's always great to see what people are doing with the patterns!  Thank you to the followers of this blog, it's good to know there are people out there reading this!  I'm always open to suggestions too, so if you have questions, or there is something you want to suggest, please feel free to do so.  (Just no alpaca or metal, I am, unfortunately, allergic to both of those!)  I am trying to use yarns that are affordable in the patterns for this blog, as I'm sure it's not just me on a budget.
         As usual, feel free to use the patterns here but please remember to reference me as the designer.

Easy Peasy Neck Piece

Malabrigo Lace. col. Pagoda

Size 10.5 needles

Size E crochet hook

1 button

Finished piece measures 14” long and 4.5" wide

Gauge:  3.5 sts to 1” holding 4 strands of yarn together

Before making the scarf divide ball into two equal size balls.  Use the ends from the outside of each ball, you are holding four strands of yarn in your hand.  (If you do not have a ball winder at home ask if your LYS can wind the yarn for you into two equal size balls.)

Sometimes there’s a bit of yarn left over and you don’t want to throw it out but you’re not sure what to do with it.  When there’s not enough left for a full sized scarf or gloves there’s always this little pattern.  Or, if you’re like me, and have an allergy to metal, this little neck piece gives you a chance to be stylish.  It fits comfortably around your neck and keeps you warm without the bulk of a scarf or cowl.  

Cast on 16 sts

Work in garter st for 14”

Bind off

Using crochet hook and only TWO strands of yarn chain 15, break yarn leaving a 4” tail, and pull through last stitch.

Sew button on  opposite side of neck piece, 3 garter ridges in from cast on.  

Wear and enjoy!

Hope you all have a Happy Holidays!  

Oh Tiny Tree

          Here's pattern #7, just in time for the holidays!  It's a tiny tree that I came up with after looking at some pretty, but very expensive knitted ornaments.  It's hard to believe that this is the second month of this project, it feels like it's been going so fast.  (Bet I won't be saying that on week 40!)  Use this little tree as an ornament, a decoration on a package, or just as a present on it's own.  It's a fun way to use up all those odds and ends hanging around your stash!

          As always, feel free to use the pattern to make a tree, (or three!), for yourself but please reference me as the designer.  Thank you!

Oh Tiny Tannenbaum

Cascade 220, col palm

Small amount of yellow or gold colored yarn

9 small buttons

Leftover yarn scraps or polyfill stuffing

Tree is about 5 1/2” tall

This little tree was inspired by some ornaments that I saw in a store.  The ornaments themselves were very cute but very expensive so when I got home I pulled some green wool out of my stash and started playing around with shapes until I came up with this little tree.  It’s a quick little knit, just a couple of hours, and uses up your leftovers.  I have lots of odds and ends hanging around so I used some to stuff the tree and a bit of yellow for the garland.  I raided the buttonbox for some little buttons to use as ornaments and voila!  A tiny tree!   The tree is small enough to be hung on a tree, used as a decoration on a package, or to hang over a doorknob.  Have a happy holiday and enjoy!

Gauge-5 sts to 1”

Don’t be too concerned over the gauge.  If your tree is a little bigger or smaller it’s okay.  

SSK-slip 2 sts from left hand needle as to knit, place back on left hand needle and knit

K2TOG-knit 2 sts together

P2TOG-purl 2 sts together

SSP-slip 2 sts from left hand needles as to knit, place back on left hand needle and purl

SSSP-slip 3 sts from left hand needle as to knit, place back on left hand needle and purl

S1K2TOGPSSO-slip 1 st as to knit, knit the remaining 2 sts together, pass slip st over the remaining st

Cast on 7 sts

Work 7 rows in garter st

At the beginning of the next row, using the backward loop method, cast on 10 sts, purl to end

At the beginning of the next row, using the backward loop method, cast on 10 sts, knit to end

Purl 1 row

First set of decreases:

Decrease row 1:  k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (25 sts)

Decrease row 2:  p1, p2tog, purl to last 3 sts, ssp, p1 (23 sts)

Decrease row 3:  k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (21 sts)

Decrease row 4:  p1, p2tog, purl to last 3 sts, ssp, p1 (19 sts)

Decrease row 5:  k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (17 sts)

Decrease row 6:  p1, p2tog, purl to last 3 sts, ssp, p1 (15 sts)

Decrease row 7:  k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (13 sts)

Decrease row 8:  p1, p2tog, purl to last 3 sts, ssp, p1 (11 sts)

Increase row:  (RS)  using the backward loop method, cast on 6 sts st beginning of row, knit to end (17 sts)

Increase row:  (WS) using the backward loop method, cast on 6 sts at the beginning of row,  purl to end (23 sts)

Second set of decreases:

Decrease row 1:  k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (21 sts)

Decrease row 2:  p1, p2tog, purl to last 3 sts, ssp, p1 (19 sts)

Decrease row 3:  k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (17 sts)

Decrease row 4:  p1, p2tog, purl to last 3 sts, ssp, p1 (15 sts)

Decrease row 5:  k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (13 sts)

Decrease row 6:  p1, p2tog, purl to last 3 sts, ssp, p1 (11 sts)

Decrease row 7:  k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (9 sts)

Decrease row 8:  p1, p2tog, purl to last 3 sts, ssp, p1 (7 sts)

Increase row:  (RS)  using the backward loop method, cast on 4 sts at beginning of row, knit to end (11 sts)

Increase row:  (WS)  using the backward loop method, cast on 4 sts at the beginning of row, purl to end (15 sts)

Third set of decreases:

Decrease row 1:  k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (13 sts)

Decrease row 2:  p1, p2tog, purl to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1 (11 sts)

Decrease row 3:  k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (9 sts)

Decrease row 4:  p1, p2tog, purl to last 3 sts, ssp, p1 (7 sts)

Decrease row 5:  k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (5 sts)

Decrease row 6:  p1, sssp, p1 (3 sts)

Decrease row 7:  s1k2togpsso

Cut a 10” tail and pull through remaining st

Repeat for second side

Beginning at top of tree, and using one of the tails left from bind off, sew around tree halfway.  Starting at top of tree, with other tail left from bind off, sew around other side of tree, stopping about 2”  away from where you left off with the other tail.  Using leftover yarn scraps, or polyfill stuffing, stuff tree until it is about 1” thick.   Use one of the yarn tails to sew up opening. 

With a darning needle and leftover yellow/gold yarn sew a garland onto tree.  I made a zigzag on both sides but feel free to sew whatever garland you prefer onto your tree.  Sew buttons on for ornaments.   Enjoy!

The perfect tree for me!

Twisted and Twinkie Chan Workshop

   Last night Portland yarn store Twisted, http://twistedpdx.com/, had a workshop with crocheter Twinkie Chan.  She makes wonderful scarves, hats, hand warmers and more, all food themed.  (Find her website here:  http://www.twinkiechan.com/)  I'm not the best crocheter but I had so much fun making a crocheted cupcake I'm going to attempt to make the scarf.  (I think it might be a great way to use up some of the odds and ends in my stash.)  Twisted has, in addition to a wonderful selection of yarn, a great selection of teas.  The staff were great, offering us tea and real, edible cupcakes during the class!  So much fun!   Thanks to Twisted and Twinkie Chan!

New Pattern

Here's the newest pattern.  It's a cardigan made from Noro's lovely Kureyon yarn that I found at one of my LYSs, www.knit-purl.com.   (Find Noro here:  http://noroyarns.com.)  Hope you like the cardigan!  As usual, feel free to use the pattern but please remember to reference me as the designer when posting pictures of it.  As with all my creations I'd love to see your finished projects so send me pictures of them and I'll post them here. Apologies for the photos being at the end of the pattern but I had a little difficulty getting them on the blog.  Thanks for looking and good luck!



If you have any questions, or run into any problems with the pattern, please email me and I'll do my best to help.

Noro Cardigan with Mistake Rib 

4.5 sts to 1”

7 balls Noro Kureyon colourway 217  (If you want your cardigan or sleeves longer, or if you just worry about running out of yarn, purchase another skein.  There were only 7 skeins of the colourway that I liked at my LYS.  I ended up having about 3 yards left when I finished.)

size 7 24” circulars 

size 5 24” circulars

size H crochet hook

4 stitch markers in colour A, 2 stitch markers in colour B

3 buttons

The neck of this cardigan is shaped with short row shaping so the collar will lay flat. This is a top down cardigan, perfect for beginning knitters who are comfortable with increasing and decreasing and a quick and easy knit for experienced knitters.  You will be increasing during the short row shaping so be sure and read through the pattern before beginning the cardigan to familiarize yourself with what you will be doing.   I made it 36” around to fit a 34” bust.  Because of the wide neckline and the customizable button bands you can easily make it a bit larger or smaller just by working a few more or fewer increase rows.  Just remember to do this after the short rows have been worked. 

Body:  cast on 16 sts, pm, cast on 8 sts, pm, cast on 38 sts, pm, cast on 8 sts, pm, cast on 16 sts, pm

Purl 1 row

Begin short row shaping: 

row 1: knit across 59 sts, w & t

row 2: purl across 35 sts, w & t

row 3: knit across 38 sts, w & t

row 4: purl across 40 sts, w & t

row 5: knit 2, kfb, sm, kfb, knit across 36 sts, kfb, sm, kfb, knit 1, w & t

row 6: purl across 49 sts, w & t

row 7: knit 4 sts, kfb, sm,  kfb, knit across 38 sts, kfb, sm, kfb, knit 3 sts, w & t

row 8: purl across 54 sts, w & t

row 9: knit 6, kfb, sm, kfb, knit across 40 sts, kfb, sm, kfb, knit to end

row 10: purl to end

row 11: knit across 15 sts, kfb, sm, kfb, knit 9, kfb, sm, kfb, knit across 42 sts, kfb,sm, kfb, knit across 9 sts, kfb, kfb, knit to end          

row 12: purl

This ends the short row shaping for the cardigan.  From here on you will increase before and after the markers as normal by knitting the front and back of each st.  All wrong side rows will be purled.

row 13:  knit to 1st marker, kfb, sm, kfb, repeat 3 more times, knit to end

row 14: purl

Repeat these two rows 15 more times

There will be 31 sts for each front, 43 sts for each sleeve, and 76 sts for back

Divide for body and sleeves:

knit across front sts, remove markers, place 43 sleeve sts on scrap yarn, sm, knit across back sts, remove marker, place 43 sleeve sts on scrap yarn, sm, knit to end

(142 sts left on needles)

Body:

*please note all waist shaping for this cardigan will take place at back darts

Starting with a purl row, work 3 rows in st st

Set up row for back darts: knit across front to side markers, sm, knit 15 sts, pm, knit across 46 sts, pm, knit to end

purl 1 row

Decrease row: knit to 1st back dart marker, sm, ssk, knit to 2 sts before 2nd dart marker, k2tog, knit to end

row 2: purl

row 3: knit

row 4: purl

Repeat these 4 rows 8 more times  (124 sts left)

work 10 rows in st st

Increase row: knit to 1st back dart marker, sm, k1, m1, knit to 1 st before 2nd back dart marker, k1, m1, sm, knit to end

row 2: purl

row 3: knit

row 4: purl 

Repeat these 4 rows 6 more times, ending with a RS row

Change to smaller needles

WS: sl1, p2, k2 across row to last st, sl1

RS: knit across row

Repeat these 2 rows until the ribbing measures 3”

Bind off

Sleeves:  

Transfer sts from first sleeve to larger size needles

Pick up 2 at underarm (45 sts)

Work in st st for 14”, increasing 1 st on last row

Change to smaller needles and knit 1 RS row

WS: sl1, p2, k2 across row to last st, sl1

RS: knit

Repeat these 2 rows until ribbing measures 1.5”

Bind off

Repeat for second sleeve

Finishing: using size 5 circular needles, pick up 92 around neck edge with the wrong side of work facing you.

Work in broken rib for 5’

*Please note*  Because of the way the collar will lie, the Rs will be the side facing you when the wrong side of the cardigan is facing you.  The collar is meant to fold back over the neck and shoulders.

Rs: knit

Ws: p2, k2

Button and buttonhole bands:  with size H hook and the right side of work facing you work 64 scs along side A, turn and sc to end, fasten off.

Repeat for side B.

Button loops:  first decide where you would like your buttons to be placed on the cardigan.  I started about an inch from the top edge, and then place the next two buttons at three inch intervals.  Sew buttons on.  Leaving a three inch tail, chain 10 with size H hook.  Using a tapestry needle, pull tail through sc band.  Fasten off chain, leave a three inch tail, and pull this through sc band, next to where you placed the first tail.  Secure, then using tapestry needle, wrap tail several times around the base of buttonloop to form a decorative detail.  Repeat this two more times, placing loops opposite the buttons.  Try on and enjoy!

Front view of cardigan 

Back neck.  Short rows help the collar to curve properly.

Back view of cardigan 

Front collar detail.  This also shows placement of the buttons.