The Shop

I put my first item up on Etsy this morning with more to come.  (Etsy says the items will be up to view on the website in 12 to 24 hours.)  Wish me luck!

Tomorrow........

As if the project of doing one pattern a week for the next 49 weeks wasn't enough, I've decided to open an Etsy store in time for the holidays.  Wish me luck!  (the shop is under 1knittinkitten, if you want to stop by tomorrow and take a look!)

A Cloche Call

This little cloche was inspired by Portland's rainy weather and the sometimes cumbersome nature of umbrellas.  I hate getting rained on but find it's not always easy to carry around my umbrellas, especially when running errands.   There were two balls of Malabrigo lace weight, colour Frank Ogre, hanging out in my stash and I decided to put them to good use.  I used four strands together, (hold both ends of each ball as you knit), to make a warm, water-resistant cloche hat.  The blue version is made from a worsted weight yarn, Shepherd's Worsted in Misty Blue, available from my LYS, Urban Fiber Arts at 428 NW 11th Ave, in Portland's Pearl District.  If you aren't lucky enough to live in Portland, you can find Urban Fiber Arts here, http://urbanfiberarts.com/.  Thanks to the owner, Cindy Abernathy, for the use of Millicent the mannequin.

A Cloche Call

Chartreuse cloche: 2 skeins Malabrigo Lace in Frank Ogre                         
Blue cloche:  1 skein Shepherd's Worsted in Misty Blue

1 pair size 10 needles

1 pair 16” circular needles, size 9

1 button

Gauge:  4 sts to 1” on smaller needles
*Remember if you are using the Malabrigo Lace you will be holding 4 strands together as you work.  Use the ends from both the inside and the outside of each ball*

This cloche almost didn’t happen.  It originally started as a gauge swatch that I thought might look nice as a knitted headband.  As I was casting off on the final row of the band I decided to turn the work and keep going.  The hat kind of just evolved from there.  

Cast on 12 sts with size 10 needles and work in garter st for 6 rows

Buttonhole:  knit 5, k2tog, yo, knit to end

Work 7 more rows, place removable marker or scrap yarn to mark this row 

Work in garter st until piece measures 21”

Bind off, leaving last st on needles

Using the 16” circular needles pick up 101 sts along the 

edge of hat, between the last bind off st and the marked row

Mark beginning of row with marker

(Remember to switch to double pointed needles when there are too few stitches to fit comfortably on circular needles)

Join and work in stockinette st in the round for 2”

Decrease row 1:  ssk, knit 15, repeat to end of row

Work 1 row plain

Decrease row 2:  ssk, knit 14, repeat to end of row

Work 1 row plain

Decrease row 3:  ssk, knit 13, repeat to end of row

Decrease row 4:  ssk, knit 12, repeat to end of row

Decrease row 5:  ssk, knit 11, repeat to end of row

Decrease row 6:  ssk, knit 10, repeat to end of row

Decrease row 7:  ssk, knit 9, repeat to end of row

Decrease row 8:  ssk, knit 8, repeat to end of row

Decrease row 9:  ssk, knit 7, repeat to end of row

Decrease row 10:  ssk, knit 6, repeat to end of row

Decrease row 11:  ssk, knit 5, repeat to end of row

Decrease row 12:  ssk, knit 4, repeat to end of row

Decrease row 13:  ssk, knit 3, repeat to end of row

Decrease row 14:  ssk, knit 2, repeat to end of row

Decrease row 15:  ssk, knit 1, repeat to end of row

Decrease row 16:  ssk, repeat to end of row

Cut yarn, leaving a tail about 6” long

With yarn on a darning needle, thread through remaining sts and pull tight

Weave in ends

Sew on button to correspond to buttonhole

Wear and enjoy!

Monday's pattern........

I'm really excited about the new Monday's pattern.  I thought it was going to be one that I have been working on for a while, but I got inspired by yesterday's rainy day and came up with a stylish, yet quick knit.  Can't wait to hear what you think of it!

New Pattern

Here's the newest pattern.  It's a cardigan made from Noro's lovely Kureyon yarn that I found at one of my LYSs, www.knit-purl.com.   (Find Noro here:  http://noroyarns.com.)  Hope you like the cardigan!  As usual, feel free to use the pattern but please remember to reference me as the designer when posting pictures of it.  As with all my creations I'd love to see your finished projects so send me pictures of them and I'll post them here. Apologies for the photos being at the end of the pattern but I had a little difficulty getting them on the blog.  Thanks for looking and good luck!



If you have any questions, or run into any problems with the pattern, please email me and I'll do my best to help.

Noro Cardigan with Mistake Rib 

4.5 sts to 1”

7 balls Noro Kureyon colourway 217  (If you want your cardigan or sleeves longer, or if you just worry about running out of yarn, purchase another skein.  There were only 7 skeins of the colourway that I liked at my LYS.  I ended up having about 3 yards left when I finished.)

size 7 24” circulars 

size 5 24” circulars

size H crochet hook

4 stitch markers in colour A, 2 stitch markers in colour B

3 buttons

The neck of this cardigan is shaped with short row shaping so the collar will lay flat. This is a top down cardigan, perfect for beginning knitters who are comfortable with increasing and decreasing and a quick and easy knit for experienced knitters.  You will be increasing during the short row shaping so be sure and read through the pattern before beginning the cardigan to familiarize yourself with what you will be doing.   I made it 36” around to fit a 34” bust.  Because of the wide neckline and the customizable button bands you can easily make it a bit larger or smaller just by working a few more or fewer increase rows.  Just remember to do this after the short rows have been worked. 

Body:  cast on 16 sts, pm, cast on 8 sts, pm, cast on 38 sts, pm, cast on 8 sts, pm, cast on 16 sts, pm

Purl 1 row

Begin short row shaping: 

row 1: knit across 59 sts, w & t

row 2: purl across 35 sts, w & t

row 3: knit across 38 sts, w & t

row 4: purl across 40 sts, w & t

row 5: knit 2, kfb, sm, kfb, knit across 36 sts, kfb, sm, kfb, knit 1, w & t

row 6: purl across 49 sts, w & t

row 7: knit 4 sts, kfb, sm,  kfb, knit across 38 sts, kfb, sm, kfb, knit 3 sts, w & t

row 8: purl across 54 sts, w & t

row 9: knit 6, kfb, sm, kfb, knit across 40 sts, kfb, sm, kfb, knit to end

row 10: purl to end

row 11: knit across 15 sts, kfb, sm, kfb, knit 9, kfb, sm, kfb, knit across 42 sts, kfb,sm, kfb, knit across 9 sts, kfb, kfb, knit to end          

row 12: purl

This ends the short row shaping for the cardigan.  From here on you will increase before and after the markers as normal by knitting the front and back of each st.  All wrong side rows will be purled.

row 13:  knit to 1st marker, kfb, sm, kfb, repeat 3 more times, knit to end

row 14: purl

Repeat these two rows 15 more times

There will be 31 sts for each front, 43 sts for each sleeve, and 76 sts for back

Divide for body and sleeves:

knit across front sts, remove markers, place 43 sleeve sts on scrap yarn, sm, knit across back sts, remove marker, place 43 sleeve sts on scrap yarn, sm, knit to end

(142 sts left on needles)

Body:

*please note all waist shaping for this cardigan will take place at back darts

Starting with a purl row, work 3 rows in st st

Set up row for back darts: knit across front to side markers, sm, knit 15 sts, pm, knit across 46 sts, pm, knit to end

purl 1 row

Decrease row: knit to 1st back dart marker, sm, ssk, knit to 2 sts before 2nd dart marker, k2tog, knit to end

row 2: purl

row 3: knit

row 4: purl

Repeat these 4 rows 8 more times  (124 sts left)

work 10 rows in st st

Increase row: knit to 1st back dart marker, sm, k1, m1, knit to 1 st before 2nd back dart marker, k1, m1, sm, knit to end

row 2: purl

row 3: knit

row 4: purl 

Repeat these 4 rows 6 more times, ending with a RS row

Change to smaller needles

WS: sl1, p2, k2 across row to last st, sl1

RS: knit across row

Repeat these 2 rows until the ribbing measures 3”

Bind off

Sleeves:  

Transfer sts from first sleeve to larger size needles

Pick up 2 at underarm (45 sts)

Work in st st for 14”, increasing 1 st on last row

Change to smaller needles and knit 1 RS row

WS: sl1, p2, k2 across row to last st, sl1

RS: knit

Repeat these 2 rows until ribbing measures 1.5”

Bind off

Repeat for second sleeve

Finishing: using size 5 circular needles, pick up 92 around neck edge with the wrong side of work facing you.

Work in broken rib for 5’

*Please note*  Because of the way the collar will lie, the Rs will be the side facing you when the wrong side of the cardigan is facing you.  The collar is meant to fold back over the neck and shoulders.

Rs: knit

Ws: p2, k2

Button and buttonhole bands:  with size H hook and the right side of work facing you work 64 scs along side A, turn and sc to end, fasten off.

Repeat for side B.

Button loops:  first decide where you would like your buttons to be placed on the cardigan.  I started about an inch from the top edge, and then place the next two buttons at three inch intervals.  Sew buttons on.  Leaving a three inch tail, chain 10 with size H hook.  Using a tapestry needle, pull tail through sc band.  Fasten off chain, leave a three inch tail, and pull this through sc band, next to where you placed the first tail.  Secure, then using tapestry needle, wrap tail several times around the base of buttonloop to form a decorative detail.  Repeat this two more times, placing loops opposite the buttons.  Try on and enjoy!

Front view of cardigan 

Back neck.  Short rows help the collar to curve properly.

Back view of cardigan 

Front collar detail.  This also shows placement of the buttons. 

Tomorrow........

There will be a new pattern appearing tomorrow..........................

Hope everyone will like it!

First Pattern..............

Easy Crocheted Armwarmers


Here's an easy way to stay warm this winter.  I love to keep my hands warm during the winter but want to look fashionable while doing so.  Last year I made myself a pair of crocheted armwarmers and got so many compliments on them I had to start selling them.   This pair is made from super soft Malabrigo Worsted, http://www.malabrigoyarn.com/, in a beautiful grey color.  I like to think they have a steampunk esthetic to them, perfect for keeping your hands warm in a most lady like way.



Easy Crocheted Armwarmers

1 skein Malabrigo worsted in colour Black Forest

1 crochet hook size H

1 crochet hook size E

Scrap yarn in contrasting colour

10 small mother of pearl buttons ( I used a mix of vintage buttons I had in my button box to give the gloves a eclectic, vintage look. Using more modern buttons will give the gloves a more sophisticated look.)

Gauge - 3.75 sc to 1” wide and 4 sc to 1” high using size H hook

Start: chain 23 loosely using a size H hook

SC into second chain from the end, sc to end

Join for crocheting in the round and work a further 9 rows in sc, marking start of round with scrap yarn

Separate for thumb: work to beginning of round, turn and sc back

work back and forth in rows for a further 10 rows

On last row do not turn but join split and work for 11 sc

Place scrap yarn marker and work to end of row

Work in the round for a further 18 rows, ending at new marker

Separate for buttonband: work to marker, turn and sc back

Continue to work in sc for 15 more rows

Break yarn and fasten off

Repeat for second arm warmer

Thumb: using size H hook and starting at base of thumb work 26 scs around thumb opening, then work one more row around. Fasten off.

Button band and buttonhole band:

Left hand glove - with RS of glove facing you, start at right hand side edge with size E hook, work 18 scs across right side, 1 sc at apex of split, 18 scs along left side

You will now work the buttonhole band first.

Buttonhole band: work 17 scs, work a slip st into next sc, turn

work to end of row

work 2 sc, crochet 2 for button hole, repeat 4 more times
fasten off

sc back across 17 scs to apex of work, work a slip st into the next sc, sc back to right edge of work

Button band: work 17 scs, work a slip st into next sc, work back to end

Fasten off.

Right hand glove - with RS of glove facing you, start at right hand side edge with size E hook, work 18 scs across right side, 1 sc at apex of split, 18 scs along the left side

You will now work the button band first.

Button band: work 17 scs across row, work a slip st into the next sc, work back to end of work

Buttonhole band: work 17 scs, work a slip st into next sc, turn

work 2 scs, chain 2, work a sc into st next to last sc, work 2 scs, repeat 4 more times

fasten off

Weave in all ends and sew on buttons to correspond to buttonholes.

Here's the finished pair. I left the contrast yarn stitch marker in to show approximately where it should be in relation to the thumb.

Wear and enjoy!